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Roaming the Pyrenees

Mythological beauty and a lot of horses

By Georgios Vasilopoulos

November 1^st, 2023

In ancient Greek mythology, it is said that Pyrene—a nymph of ethereal beauty and daughter of Bebryx, king of the Bebryces—found herself consumed by desire for Hercules's affection, only to be met with his cold rejection. In solitude, she took to the mountains, roaming as she sought solace for her heartbreak. As Pyrene’s anguish intensified, she began a metamorphosis, the gods gradually transforming her into a mountain range stretching across the lands that now delineate the border between Spain and France. The Pyrenees emerged from her grief, immortalising Pyrene’s name within their rugged peaks and stunning landscapes.

My friend Federico and I found ourselves roaming the Pyrenees, last August, as we travelled north by camper van from Girona to the badlands of Bardenas Reales. Unlike Pyrene, however, our journey was more magic than tragic—her legacy and mythological beauty could be seen everywhere. Valleys of grazing horses led to rocky summits, reaching for the skies, while inky nights gave way to sunrises of pure gold.

The author taking in a misty sunrise in the foothills of the Pyrenees (photo: Federico Vandone Dell’Acqua)

A golden sunrise in the foothills of the Pyrenees

Those who read my articles will know that Federico is a keen road cyclist who can’t resist a mountain pass. While I amused myself piloting a four tonne house-on-wheels along the sinewy roads, Federico tested his strength and determination riding some of the famous (and infamous) summits in Pyrenees, including Col du Portillon and the renowned—in cycling circles—passes of Col de Peyresourdes and Col du Tourmalet.

A curiosity of the Pyrenees are the many horses, donkeys and llamas roaming freely throughout meadows and hills. Although reasonably tame and unbothered by the presence of humans, most are semi-feral and left to live their best lives in peace—idly grazing, lying in the sun or galloping along, manes flowing in the wind.

Horses graze unbothered in the meadows of the Pyrenees

Federico near Col du Portillon on the French-Spanish border

Rolling valleys in the foothills of the Pyrenees

Federico reaches Col de Peyresourde, an infamous pass in the cycling community

Ascending towards Col du Tourmalet, the road disappears into a veil of fog just beyond the tree line, piercing through the clouds trapped among the peaks. At the summit, we took time to enjoy the breathtaking views and crisp, clean air. Jagged peaks cut into the sky high above valleys of vibrant green meadows dotted with wildflowers swaying gently in the breeze.

Horses in the Pyrenees at a rest stop shrouded in clouds

Nightfall unveils a new dimension to the Pyrenees—a celestial spectacle. The vast peaks create a natural shield against encroaching light pollution from nearby towns and villages, revealing a mesmerising display of stars in the inky skies. The Milky Way’s ethereal glow serves as a humbling reminder of just how insignificant even these towering mountains—and Pyrene’s anguish from which they purportedly originated—are compared to the vastness beyond our small blue planet.